Chili Dogs Detroit Style

Detroit's coney sauce isn't a bowl of chili you happen to put on a hot dog — it's its own thing, engineered from the start to hug a frankfurter without sliding off or stealing the show. It's finer-textured and beefier than a sit-down chili, with no beans and no big chunks, simmered until it's thick but still pourable. The secret is starting with raw ground beef broken up in broth rather than browned, which keeps the texture smooth and almost saucy — exactly what you want draped over a natural-casing dog at a Coney Island diner counter. Make a pot and you'll understand why Detroiters argue about it.

A natural-casing hot dog and a soft steamed bun are traditional. For a "loose" sandwich, skip the dog and spoon the sauce over a bun with onions and mustard.

It freezes well — make a double batch. No mustard powder? A teaspoon of prepared yellow mustard stirred in works in a pinch.